Pantagruel

Like the eternal character created by Rabelais, chef Jason Gouzy, a thirty-something from Rémois, is generous - a generosity he tinges with the finesse he learned at the Ferrandi school, then progressively expressed at L'Assiette Champenoise, Le Bristol and Le Baudelaire. With the help of a fashion designer, he has concocted a sober gourmet cocoon, both bourgeois and romantic, in the heart of the Sentier. Behind the kitchen's large bay window, the chef demonstrates the full range of his savoir-faire with dishes presented in small satellite plates - from a play on textures to land-sea associations, smoked dishes and condiments, like this smoked beet and sardine, or this blue lobster in 3 variations.